{"id":96,"date":"2013-01-31T18:36:00","date_gmt":"2013-01-31T16:36:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/?p=96"},"modified":"2018-03-03T18:59:56","modified_gmt":"2018-03-03T16:59:56","slug":"paris-haute-couture-spring-summer-2013","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2013\/01\/paris-haute-couture-spring-summer-2013.html","title":{"rendered":"Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013: Italians do it better!"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

A Parigi durante la settimana di sfilate dedicate alla haute couture per la primavera estate 2013<\/b> \u00e8 andato in scena un vero e proprio scontro tra i couturier francesi e l’avanzata dei maestri italiani. Quattro le categorie in cui gli stilisti sembrano essersi cimentati cercando di conciliare le necessit\u00e0 delle donne contemporanee con la dimensione del “sogno principesco” che solo l’alta moda riesce a trasmettere.<\/p>\n

\u00a0<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Paris<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013 – Dior, Valentino (details)<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
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<\/p>\n

CONTEMPORANEITA’<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
L’arrivo di Raf Simons<\/span> in casa Dior<\/b> ha stravolto il concetto di haute couture, rendendola sobria ed attuale grazie alla ricerca di materiali quasi high tech ed allo studio di volumi fortemente geometrici che ci ricordano gli esordi del fondatore della maison. Questo ritrovato purismo formale di linee pulite ed essenziali, si scontra con la poesia di Giambattista Valli<\/b>, l’italiano trapiantato a Parigi interprete di uno stile romantico contemporaneo destinato alle star e alle giovanissime socialit\u00e9 di tutto il mondo. Come al solito tra i pezzi forte della collezione: total look animalier, copiose composizioni floreali e gli immancabili gioielli scultura di Luigi Scialanga<\/b>.<\/div>\n
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\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Dior<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Dior – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Giambattista<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Giambattista Valli – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
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SENSUALITA’<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
Il mood sexy e sfrontato pervade anche la haute couture, \u00e8 questo il caso del confronto tra Alexandre Vauthier <\/b>e Atelier Versace<\/b>. Il primo \u00e8 minimale e graffiante con scolli e spacchi vertiginosi impreziositi da collari o cavigliere dorate. Donatella Versace invece osa con le trasparenze: i tailleur gessati diventano sculture moderne dai tagli fluidi con spalline in pelliccia e polsiere d’oro che riportano alla mente le donne gladiatore. Per la sera: abito lungo total white con dettagli fluo o corto plissettato stile peplo, perch\u00e9 nonostante l’appeal trasgressivo, l’antichit\u00e0 classica rimane un must nei riferimenti culturali della maison.<\/div>\n
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\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Alexandre<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alexandre Vauthier – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Atelier<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Atelier Versace – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
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VIAGGIO<\/b><\/span><\/p>\n
\n
E’ il turno di due grandi creativi che hanno incentrato le loro collezioni sul concetto di viaggio. Jean Paul Gaultier<\/b> ci porta in India stravolgendo completamente le silhouette dei costumi tradizionali, stando attento per\u00f2 a\u00a0mantenere ed enfatizzare\u00a0i colori tipici della regione attraverso le contrastanti sovrapposizioni di veli ricamati.<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
Re Giorgio invece, con la sua collezione Armani Priv\u00e9<\/b> ci conduce su un tappeto volante alla scoperta del Medio ed Estremo Oriente, fondendo culture e costumi grazie alle mani di nobili artigiani italiani. Splendidi i completi-pantalone in seta mikado arricchiti da stampe geometriche, gioielli di ispirazione tribale e cappelli fez. Come sempre, i tessuti “luminosi” declinati su volumi scultorei dai tagli e dalle pieghe invisibili sono il vero segno distintivo del Re.<\/div>\n
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<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Jean<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Jean Paul Gaultier – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Armani<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Armani Priv\u00e9 – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Armani<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Armani with his models – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\u00a0<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
SOGNO<\/b><\/span><\/div>\n
Si conclude la battaglia Francia vs Italia con i due nomi che ad ogni sfilata sembrano fermare il tempo proiettandoci nella dimensione onirica delle grandi serate di gala.\u00a0<\/div>\n
Il libanese Elie Saab<\/b>, universalmente riconosciuto come il maestro delle trasparenze e dei ricami, propone una collezione delicata dai colori pallidi che accentuano il senso di leggerezza dei tessuti bilanciati dalle tempeste floreali di strass e jais.\u00a0<\/div>\n
Nell’altro versante il duo Chiuri-Piccioli<\/b> alla guida di Valentino<\/b> che ha portato in passerella una collezione ispirata ad un giardino segreto chiuso da una grande inferriata le cui volute ricordano vagamente un abito di Charles Worth. Labirinti di rose, fiori crochet che balzano fuori dalle gonne, passerotti di brillanti che svolazzano sugli strati di tulle appoggiandosi di tanto in tanto ai rampicanti in paillette sono i protagonisti del giardino incantato di Valentino<\/b> e del quale pochissime donne posseggono la preziosa chiave. A noi non resta che immaginarlo e sognarlo, ma d’altronde, non \u00e8 questo il grande potere dell’alta moda?<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/div>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Elie<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Elie Saab – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Valentino<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Valentino – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Valentino<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Comparison between Charles Worth gown (1898\/1900) and Valentino coat – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\u00a0<\/p>\n

Dopo questa breve, ma intensa rassegna, con un orgoglio patriottico che sa quasi di rivalsa, sento di potermi sbilanciare e affermare che sulla Parigi dell’haute couture, almeno per la stagione primavera estate 2013, svetta alto il tricolore italiano.<\/p>\n

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Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator<\/div>\n
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Photocredits: vogue.it<\/div>\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A Parigi durante la settimana di sfilate dedicate alla haute couture per la primavera estate 2013 \u00e8 andato in scena un vero e proprio scontro tra i couturier francesi e l’avanzata dei maestri italiani. Quattro le categorie in cui gli stilisti sembrano essersi cimentati cercando di conciliare le necessit\u00e0 delle donne contemporanee con la dimensione del “sogno principesco” che solo l’alta moda riesce a trasmettere. \u00a0 \u00a0 Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013 – Dior, Valentino (details) \u00a0 \u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-96","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-show"],"yoast_head":"\nParis Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013: Italians do it better! | The Fashion Commentator<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2013\/01\/paris-haute-couture-spring-summer-2013.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013: Italians do it better! | The Fashion Commentator\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"A Parigi durante la settimana di sfilate dedicate alla haute couture per la primavera estate 2013 \u00e8 andato in scena un vero e proprio scontro tra i couturier francesi e l’avanzata dei maestri italiani. 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