{"id":3393,"date":"2015-12-09T18:45:13","date_gmt":"2015-12-09T16:45:13","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/?p=3393"},"modified":"2020-05-10T19:30:15","modified_gmt":"2020-05-10T17:30:15","slug":"krizia-tribute","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/12\/krizia-tribute.html","title":{"rendered":"Krizia, un personale ricordo di Mariuccia Mandelli"},"content":{"rendered":"

E’ di questi giorni la notizia della morte improvvisa di Mariuccia Mandelli, in arte Krizia. La donna che in un mondo di uomini, che disegnavano abiti per donne, ha contribuito a trasformare Milano nella capitale del pr\u00eat-\u00e0-porter, strappando il primato nazionale a Firenze e quello internazionale a Parigi.<\/p>\n

\"Krizia
Krizia by Andy Warhol<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Forte, orgogliosa e dal carattere difficile, dall’alto dei suoi 90 anni di vita e di esperienza, l’ho sempre vista come l’emblema della donna milanese (d’adozione) operosa e di successo, che con la sua nomina a Commendatore della Repubblica Italiana (1986) insieme a Ferr\u00e9,Valentino, Versace e Armani ha reso grande la Milano della creativit\u00e0. Non so perch\u00e9 mi viene sempre da associarla all’architetto Gae Aulenti, altro cavallo di razza dall’animo indipendente e creativo, anche se in realt\u00e0, quando quest’ultima allest\u00ec una mostra alla Triennale di Milano con una selezione di stilisti in cui sostitu\u00ec Krizia con Ken Scott, la “Signora” fece di tutto per affossarla con titoli di giornale che gridavano allo scandalo reclamando la sua assenza.<\/p>\n

Nonostante da anni fosse ormai trascurata dal mondo della moda italiana, mi sono sempre piaciuti i suoi codici stilistici, fissi e autonomi rispetto ai trend, e guai se non li ripresentava puntualmente di collezione in collezione. Dal racconto di alcuni assistenti che le sono stati a fianco durante gli ultimi anni dell’attivit\u00e0 ricordo che si arrabbiava spesso perch\u00e9 il suo team non metteva abbastanza “Krizia” nelle collezioni e fino all’ultimo non era mai contenta: le zeppe altissime; gli shorts microscopici; le costruzioni geometriche, quasi architettoniche; il pliss\u00e8; l’effetto metallizzato, declinato nei colori delle medaglie da podio, oro, argento, bronzo; il bestiario selvatico con tigri, pantere e leoni; e infine le innovazioni tecniche e tecnologiche apportate alla maglieria.<\/p>\n

Krizia, il mio ricordo<\/h2>\n

Avendo una madre appassionata di moda, sin da piccolo, quando sfogliavo le sue riviste e disegnavo i baffi a tutte le modelle, ho avuto a che fare con i canoni Krizia tanto da riconoscere in quei diktat uno stile di un’epoca, ma il primo contatto con un suo abito dal vivo \u00e8 avvenuto nel 2007, in occasione di una bella mostra al Museo del Tessuto di Prato, dedicata a Thayaht e la fortuna della tuta, il capo da lui inventato. I pliss\u00e9 metallici, taglienti, allo stesso tempo morbidi e sinuosi dell’iconica tuta mi avevano letteralmente stregato e in un solo abito rivedevo davanti ai miei occhi la pura essenza degli anni ’80.<\/p>\n

\"Krizia<\/p>\n

Qualche anno dopo, nel 2012, ho avuto poi la fortuna di partecipare ad una delle ultime sfilate, la primavera estate 2013<\/a><\/strong><\/em> e nonostante gli anni passati, ogni elemento del Krizia-pensiero era l\u00ec, fedele a s\u00e9 stesso, nel solito teatro in via Manin. Ricordo le gambe lunghissime di queste modelle super magre che sembravano ancora pi\u00f9 alte a bordo di maxi platform che nell’infinito riciclarsi delle tendenze, erano gi\u00e0 tornati di moda. Ci\u00f2 che per\u00f2 mi colp\u00ec fu proprio Krizia, che si sforz\u00f2 di percorrere un tratto della passerella per riuscire a fare l’inchino finale e salutare i suoi sostenitori. Erano passi stanchi, fragili, difficili, con il bastone in una mano e gli occhiali che le coprivano il volto, mascherando ogni tipo di emozione sotto il suo classico caschetto (portato molto prima di Anna Wintour). Una volta nel backstage a fine sfilata non volle salutare nessuno, solo un gruppetto di vecchie amiche, mentre fuori una lunga fila di giornalisti sperava di poterle strappare una dichiarazione.<\/p>\n

Per concludere questo piccolo tributo personale condivido un curioso aneddoto tra leggenda e realt\u00e0 di quando in tarda et\u00e0, dovendosi operare agli occhi a causa del forte abbassamento della vista, la \u201cSignora\u201d Krizia chiese al chirurgo di lasciarle alcuni decimi di difetto, poich\u00e9 preferiva vedere le figure con bordi e contorni non definiti. Un modo diverso e distorto per filtrare la realt\u00e0, anche paradossalmente opposto alle sue scelte stilistiche in cui prediligeva linee definite e tagli netti, ma riflesso di un’indole artistica fuori dagli schemi.<\/p>\n

Alessandro Masetti \u2013 The Fashion Commentator<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Ci spiace, ma questo articolo \u00e8 disponibile soltanto in English.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3394,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[28],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3393","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-fashion-people"],"yoast_head":"\nIn memory of Krizia<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"My personal tribute to fashion designer Mariuccia Mandelli, aka Krizia, died at 90 in Milan. 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