{"id":298,"date":"2011-03-10T07:24:00","date_gmt":"2011-03-10T05:24:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/?p=298"},"modified":"2018-03-04T18:53:23","modified_gmt":"2018-03-04T16:53:23","slug":"paris-fashion-week-fall-winter-20112012_10","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2011\/03\/paris-fashion-week-fall-winter-20112012_10.html","title":{"rendered":"Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011 – pt IV"},"content":{"rendered":"

Quarta parte del reportage sulla\u00a0Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011<\/p>\n

Alexander McQueen<\/span> by Sarah Burton interpreta una Ice Queen e la sua corte: lana bianca che si sfrangia in piume e pellicce lungo i bordi delle giacche e degli abiti; silhouette strizzate da busti di pelle nera con fasce e cinghie dai richiami fetish; scolli profondi fino all\u2019ombelico con stringhe cos\u00ec come gli stivali; trionfi di frange lunghe, strascichi importanti e applicazioni; le scarpe rigorosamente borchiate o con super zeppa e platform. Palette di contrasti: bianco, nero, grigio e lilla.<\/p>\n

\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a><\/p>\n

Chanel<\/span> sembra ispirarsi alla strada, Karl Lagerfeld abbandona la donna bene e si diverte a sperimentare il guardaroba per una giovane ragazza contemporanea che vive il mondo attraverso l\u2019occhio di foto blogger e outfit blogger: stratificazioni, shearling e reinterpretazione dei capi iconici della maison con un\u2019aria androgina e dall\u2019appeal casual-sportivo. Per la sera, mezzo tacco e stratificazioni di trasparenze, oltre che baggy pants.<\/p>\n

\"Chanel<\/a>\"Chanel<\/a>\"Chanel<\/a><\/p>\n

Chlo\u00e9<\/span> predilige una vestibilit\u00e0 morbida e confortevole, molto larga e leggera, nelle tinte bianco e nero. Una sola mania: il pitone, onnipresente su accessori, cappotti e pantaloni.<\/p>\n

\"Chloe<\/a>\"Chloe<\/a><\/p>\n

Il duo Commuun <\/span>segue la tendenza francese del bianco, nero e cobalto interpretandola nella versione a righe. Abiti dalla silhouette larga a fasce trasparenti alternate con sotto veste in seta pi\u00f9 lunga che spunta al di sotto e copre fino a met\u00e0 gamba. Si aggiungono infine altre righe colorate, ma il paragone con la collezione estiva di Prada \u00e8 fin troppo facile.<\/p>\n

\"Commuun<\/a>\"Commuun<\/a><\/p>\n

Emanuel Ungaro<\/span> applica animali tipicamente americani come lupi e aquile su maglie e maglioni, tempestandoli di strass e altri preziosi. Tanto nero e bianco interrotto puntualmente da abiti a maxi stampa floreale colorata. Lunghezze a mezza coscia per gonne e abiti, solo i tailleur e qualche altro pantalone arrivano alla caviglia. Per la sera, tante applicazioni di ruches, preziosi e inserti polimaterici.<\/p>\n

\"Emanuel<\/a>\"Emanuel<\/a><\/p>\n

Giambattista Valli<\/span> continua la sua ricerca con abiti minimali dalle forme anni 60 e 70, arricchiti da dettagli scultorei, tessuti pregiati ed elaborati o inserti polimaterici come per le gonne in pelliccia. La palette \u00e8 variegata perch\u00e8 alle prime uscite in bianco, nero e grigio, presto si accostano accessori rosso fuoco, shocking color block o fantasie floreali. Lunghezze sopra il ginocchio dall\u2019aria bon ton ma contemporaneo con rivisitazioni geometriche nella composizione.<\/p>\n

\"Giambattista<\/a>\"Giambattista<\/a><\/p>\n

Ingrid Vlasov<\/span> colpisce per l\u2019abbondanza di pizzo usato. Tanti disegni e intrecci con maxi motivi e maxi trompe l\u2019oeil floreali, svelano seni e corpi aiutandosi ulteriormente con scolli profondi a v o asimmetrici. Tra le fantasie e le trasparenze c\u2019\u00e8 anche un abito lungo bianco optical che diversifica la collezione.<\/p>\n

\"Ingrid<\/a>\"Ingrid<\/a><\/p>\n

Jean Charles de Castelbajac<\/span> ha proposto una collezione bizzarra e allo stesso tempo interessante. Molto disomogeneit\u00e0 nella scelta degli stampati: si inizia con la Carica dei 101 su cappotti e abiti che farebbero invidia a Crudelia DeMon, si continua con vere e proprie coperte in checked tartan e color block rosso acceso o in abbinamento con il bianco, ma la vera sorpresa sono gli ultimi capi dedicati alla moda surrealista. Da cappelli con mani che tengono una sigaretta, a occhi, bocche; da gonne rosse che si alzano come un sipario grazie ai cordoni dorati, alle stampe in bianco e nero sui vestiti da sera delle opere pi\u00f9 famose di Man Ray. La citazione divertente: il reggiseno nero con le mani come coppe.<\/p>\n

\"Jean<\/a>\"Jean<\/a>\"Jean<\/a>\"Jean<\/a>\"Jean<\/a><\/p>\n

Stella McCartney<\/span> predilige forme over scultoree, linee maschili e linee curve abbinate a scolli taglienti a V. Palette di colori scuri: nero, blu, il bianco in contrasto e color block in argento e oro. Le giacche sono larghissime e fanno perdere la percezione del corpo, che ritorna solo negli abiti pi\u00f9 strizzati e decorati con le trasparenze del pizzo a pois.<\/p>\n

\"Stella<\/a>\"Stella<\/a>\"Stella<\/a><\/p>\n

Valentino<\/span> by Chiuri e Piccioli pensano alla ragazza Valentino, ma contemporanea: mentre lavora, riceve gli ospiti, a un cocktail con le amiche o semplicemente fuori casa. E\u2019 una collezione da giorno, essenziale e sobria nelle forme, senza eccessi. Stampe romantiche, motivi checked, trasparenze e pizzo si manifestano nella tacita stratificazione di tessuti preziosi e lavorati. Palette cipria, blu e nero abbinata ai colori degli accessori e degli stivali beige, neri e pitonati. Niente eccesso o vistosit\u00e0 nei gioielli perch\u00e9 la forza della donna Valentino sta nella personalit\u00e0 e nel carisma visibile dal rigore delle forme.<\/p>\n

\"Valentino<\/a>\"Valentino<\/a><\/p>\n

Pilati per Yves Saint Laurent<\/span> sfoglia l\u2019archivio e ripropone gli effervescenti anni 60 e 70: abitini sopra il ginocchio si mischiano a cappotti tutti forme con maniche gonfie e maxi spalline; giacche dall\u2019appeal maschile; contrasti cromatici in bianco e nero per tasche e revers e infine gli abiti lunghi o sotto il ginocchio in total white, ripresi in vita da cinture dorate o animati con spalline riccamente decorate, immancabile il tailleur maschile.<\/p>\n

\"Yves<\/a>\"Yves<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Quarta parte del reportage sulla\u00a0Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[52],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-fashion-show"],"yoast_head":"\nParis Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011 - parte 4<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Quarta parte del reportage sulla Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2011\/03\/paris-fashion-week-fall-winter-20112012_10.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Paris Fashion Week Fall Winter 2011 - 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