{"id":2783,"date":"2015-04-16T09:56:32","date_gmt":"2015-04-16T07:56:32","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/?p=2783"},"modified":"2018-03-04T08:02:26","modified_gmt":"2018-03-04T06:02:26","slug":"luisa-tratzi-fw-2015","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html","title":{"rendered":"Alla scoperta della shoe designer Luisa Tratzi"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Mentre pubblico questo post sono a Milano per l\u2019evento must dell\u2019anno che tutto il mondo ci invidia da pi\u00f9 di 50 anni. No, non si tratta della Fashion Week, ma del Salone del Mobile. Dato che sar\u00f2 impegnato per l\u2019intera settimana in un paradiso di stimoli creativi tra arte, design e architettura, ho deciso di dedicare questo post a Luisa Tratzi, shoe designer conosciuta durante la Fashion Week, il cui stile \u00e8 fortemente influenzato dalle forme dell\u2019architettura contemporanea.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-2784\" src=\"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015.jpg\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" width=\"600\" height=\"767\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-117x150.jpg 117w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><!--more-->Suono il campanello di un grandissimo portone nel pieno centro di Milano, se ne apre solo una piccola porzione che immette in una galleria, che a sua volta conduce in una tipica corte milanese sulla quale si affacciano una serie di finestre in cui si riesce a sbirciare furtivamente il ritaglio di ambienti lussuosi, finch\u00e9 si apre un\u2019altra porta riccamente decorata. E\u2019 il temporary show-room allestito all\u2019interno di una galleria d\u2019arte. Meraviglioso.<\/p>\n<p>Sia chiaro, non voglio tediare nessuno raccontando ogni singolo passo che ho fatto, ma solo far capire come un\u2019azione comune quale quella di entrare in una casa o in un ambiente privato, in realt\u00e0 dopo la visione della collezione Luisa Tratzi FW 2015 si rivela essere una sorta di preparazione al suo modo di osservare le architetture e di reinterpretarle.<\/p>\n<p>Non c\u2019\u00e8 da stupirsi infatti se il primo dettaglio che balza subito agli occhi sono gli elaborati tacchi scultura che ricordano un\u2019opera decostruttivista di Zaha Hadid, ma per quanto artistici possano sembrare, la loro stabilit\u00e0 \u00e8 stata testata in collaborazione con ingegneri strutturisti, proprio come un edificio.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-3' class='gallery galleryid-2783 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-2'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"144\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015--144x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015--144x150.jpg 144w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 144px) 100vw, 144px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-3'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"125\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-1-150x125.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-1-150x125.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-1.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-4'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"120\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-2-150x120.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-2-150x120.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-2.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-5'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"139\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-3-150x139.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-3-150x139.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-3.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-6'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"131\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-4-150x131.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-4-150x131.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-4.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-7'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"117\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-5-150x117.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-5-150x117.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-5.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<h2 style=\"text-align: left;\">Luisa Tratzi Miss Gar\u00e7on<\/h2>\n<p>La collezione si chiama Miss Gar\u00e7on ed \u00e8 ispirata ai look androgini di icone come Greta Garbo, Katherine Hepburn e Marlene Dietrich che nel loro stile personale si sono rese interpreti del fascino femminile attraverso l\u2019aspetto rigoroso e i dettagli sartoriali maschili, andando ben oltre gli stereotipi.<\/p>\n<p>Nella collezione Luisa Tratzi FW 2015 i particolari dell\u2019abbigliamento formale maschile sono reinterpretati in elementi dall\u2019aspetto raffinato ma giocoso: i laccetti alla caviglia sembrano colletti inamidati, i piccoli rivetti e le borchiette applicate in punta simulano i bottoni di una camicia, mentre piccole alette triangolari che sporgono lungo il collo del piede non sono altro che i revers di giacche da smoking.<\/p>\n<p>Coerente con l\u2019ispirazione maschile e androgina anche la scelta deI materiali: tessuti jacquard in pura seta tratti dal mondo della cravatteria si abbinano a pellami pregiati all tonalit\u00e0 fredde ma brillanti come il carta da zucchero, il blu elettrico, il rosa ortensia e il viola prugna;\u00a0 mentre motivi a pois e pied de poule in lana sono uniti a pelli dal finish lucido e specchiato o a morbidi scamosciati.<\/p>\n<div id='gallery-4' class='gallery galleryid-2783 gallery-columns-3 gallery-size-thumbnail'><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-8'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"107\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-6-107x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-6-107x150.jpg 107w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-6-573x800.jpg 573w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-6.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 107px) 100vw, 107px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-9'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-7-150x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-7-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-7.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-16'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"100\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-14-150x100.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-14-150x100.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-14.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-15'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"146\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-13-150x146.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-13-150x146.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-13.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-14'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"93\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-12-150x93.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-12-150x93.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-12.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-13'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"116\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-11-116x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-11-116x150.jpg 116w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-11.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 116px) 100vw, 116px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-11'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"135\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-9-150x135.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-9-150x135.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-9.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon portrait'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-12'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"125\" height=\"150\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-10-125x150.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-10-125x150.jpg 125w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-10.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 125px) 100vw, 125px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure><figure class='gallery-item'>\n\t\t\t<div class='gallery-icon landscape'>\n\t\t\t\t<a href='https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015-10'><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"150\" height=\"130\" src=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-8-150x130.jpg\" class=\"attachment-thumbnail size-thumbnail\" alt=\"LUISA TRATZI FW 2015\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-8-150x130.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/04\/LUISA-TRATZI-FW-2015-8.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 150px) 100vw, 150px\" \/><\/a>\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/figure>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\n<p>Arte, architettura, design e moda, tutte discipline che la collezione di Luisa Tratzi materializza alla perfezione\u00a0 educando l\u2019occhio a riconoscere il bello anche all\u2019altezza dei piedi.<\/p>\n<p>Alessandro Masetti &#8211; The Fashion Commentator<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Ci spiace, ma questo articolo \u00e8 disponibile soltanto in English.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2783","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-new-talents"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v23.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Luisa Tratzi FW 2015 -\u00a0New Talent of MFW<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Luisa Tratzi FW 2015 shoes collection is called Miss Gar\u00e7on and is inspired by the androgynous look of icons like Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2015\/04\/luisa-tratzi-fw-2015.html\" \/>\n<meta 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