{"id":110,"date":"2012-11-29T13:23:00","date_gmt":"2012-11-29T11:23:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/?p=110"},"modified":"2018-03-04T08:09:37","modified_gmt":"2018-03-04T06:09:37","slug":"wooden-fashion","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2012\/11\/wooden-fashion.html","title":{"rendered":"Wooden Fashion"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

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Negli ultimi tre\/quattro anni i ricorsi della moda ci hanno fatto sognare con abiti e accessori tempestati di cristalli Swarovsky, piume, borchie, lamine dorate, scaglie di pvc oppure un\u2019infinit\u00e0 di stampe effetto caleidoscopio. Ed \u00e8 proprio riguardando le passerelle ed i cataloghi di accessori che noto un particolare elemento naturale che accomuna le collezioni di alcuni dei maggiori brand di ricerca, il legno.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n\n\n\n\n
\"Alexander<\/span><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Alexander McQueen – Spring Summer 1999 – Wooden Balsa Wings<\/i><\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n

<\/p>\n

\n

Uno dei pionieri tra gli stilisti ispirati da questo materiale non poteva che essere Alexander McQueen<\/a>. Gi\u00e0 nella collezione Primavera Estate 1999<\/b> propose scultoree ali d\u2019angelo e gonne ventaglio in balsa<\/b><\/span>, oltre alle famosissime gambe in legno intagliato appositamente realizzate per la campionessa paralimpica Aimee Mullins.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\n
\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
\n

Avvicinandoci ai giorni nostri \u00e8 nella sua collezione Primavera Estate 2009<\/b> che emergono le stampe caleidoscopiche<\/b> con le venature del legno<\/b> pensate su abiti couture <\/span>drappeggiati.<\/span><\/i><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n<\/div>\n

\"Alexander<\/a><\/span><\/i><\/div>\n
Alexander McQueen – Spring Summer 2009 – Wood print detail<\/span><\/i><\/div>\n
\n
\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"Alexander<\/a>\"Alexander<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Da precursore delle tendenze quale era, ha inevitabilmente influenzato la collezione Primavera Estate 2011 <\/b>delle visionarie sorelle Mulleavy del brand emergente Rodarte<\/b> e la collezione Autunno Inverno 2011<\/a> <\/b>della provocatrice concettuale Phoebe Philo, direttrice creativa del marchio C\u00e9line<\/b>. Entrambe le collezioni infatti riprendono la stampa a listoni in legno, declinandola secondo i codici stilistico-formali del brand: volant e sovrapposizioni per Rodarte; linee minimali e squadrate per C\u00e9line. Stessa idea di base, diversa l\u2019interpretazione.<\/p>\n

\n

 <\/p>\n

\"Rodarte<\/a>\"Rodarte<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"Rodarte<\/a>\"Rodarte<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
Rodarte – Spring Summer 2011 – Wood dresses<\/span><\/i><\/div>\n
\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"\"<\/a>\"\"<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
Celine – Fall Winter 2011 – Wood dresses<\/span><\/i><\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/i><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
Nel campo degli accessori e dell\u2019artigianato si \u00e8 distinto il brand Maison Martin Margiela<\/a> che per la Primavera Estate 2011<\/b>, oltre a proporre scarpe stringate in pelle stampata, ha pensato ad accessori molto particolari costituiti di legno vero, come il porta carte o il portafoglio pieghevole.<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n\n\n\n\n
\"Maison<\/span><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Maison Martin Margiela<\/a> – Wood Shoe – Spring Summer 2011<\/span><\/i><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n\n\n\n\n
\"Maison<\/span><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Maison Martin Margiela – Wood wallet – Spring Summer 2011<\/span><\/i><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
L\u2019anno precedente (Primavera Estate 2010) \u00e8 stato per\u00f2 il boom della <\/i>wooden accordion clutch di Stella Mc Cartney<\/b>, una piccola minaudiere simile ad una lanterna (in realt\u00e0 dal termine inglese Accordion dovrebbe essere una fisarmonica), realizzata con pezzi di legno disposti a raggiera e collegati tra loro con fili di cotone e all\u2019interno della quale \u00e8 contenuta una piccola sacchetta colorata estraibile che funge da corpo borsa. Un pezzo iconico che rappresenta a pieno lo stile minimale della designer ed il suo spirito eco-friendly.<\/i><\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n\n\n\n\n
\"Stella<\/span><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Stella McCartney Wooden accordion clutch bag – Spring Summer 2010<\/span><\/i><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
Tra le ultimissime novit\u00e0 ispirate al legno non si pu\u00f2 non menzionare la capsule collection invernale 2012 della lussuosa maison francese di calzature Guillaume Hinfray<\/b>. La morbidissima pelle stampata con un effetto trompe-l\u2019oeil riproducente le venature del rovere, viene declinata su d\u00e9collet\u00e9 (290\u20ac), slipper shoes (195\u20ac), stivaletti e tronchetti con tacco scuro in vero legno lucidato a mano. A completare l\u2019edizione limitata c\u2019\u00e8 anche la clutch \u201cHotel Particulier\u201d realizzata con lo stesso materiale e chiusa da un maxi piercing che ricorda l\u2019antico batacchio di un portone. Una borsa minimale e a tratti anche ironica, ma sicuramente sofisticata.<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n
\"Wooden<\/a>\"Wooden<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"Wooden<\/a>\"Wooden<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
\"Wooden<\/span><\/a><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
Durante l\u2019ultima fashion week milanese, tra i nuovi talenti in mostra nel Temporary Showroom <\/b>dedicato ai giovani stilisti presso la Camera della Moda, si \u00e8 distinta la designer toscana Greta Castelli<\/b>. La sua Ethnographic Collection<\/span> di abiti e accessori ispirati all\u2019Africa sembra voler ristabilire un contatto primordiale con la Madre Terra, grazie ad un tronco caduto nei boschi dell\u2019Abetone trasformato in una preziosa serie di bracciali e collane, adatte per arricchire e personalizzare non solo gli outfit etno-chic, ma anche i look pi\u00f9 minimali.<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n\n\n\n\n
\"Greta<\/span><\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Greta Castelli – Ethnographic collection<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n
\"\"<\/a>\"Greta<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n<\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
\u00a0<\/span><\/div>\n
Per concludere questo viaggio attraverso la \u201cmoda del legno<\/b>\u201d non poteva mancare un riferimento alla linea eco-fashion Ligneah<\/a> di Aldo e Marta Antonelli, rispettivamente padre e figlia, che hanno ideato un futuristico materiale sostenibile e cruelty free, derivato dalla lavorazione a laser di essenze come frassino, betulla o noce, in grado di sostituire e far proprie, le caratteristiche tattili della pelle animale e della stoffa. Un progetto sperimentale destinato a cambiare per sempre la percezione dei materiali ecosostenibili, dando loro la giusta importanza che meritano.<\/span><\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\n
<\/div>\n
<\/div>\n
\"Lignea<\/a>\"Ligneah<\/a>\"Ligneah<\/a><\/span><\/div>\n
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator<\/i><\/div>\n<\/div>\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Negli ultimi tre\/quattro anni i ricorsi della moda ci hanno fatto sognare con abiti e accessori tempestati di cristalli Swarovsky, piume, borchie, lamine dorate, scaglie di pvc oppure un\u2019infinit\u00e0 di stampe effetto caleidoscopio. Ed \u00e8 proprio riguardando le passerelle ed i cataloghi di accessori che noto un particolare elemento naturale che accomuna le collezioni di alcuni dei maggiori brand di ricerca, il legno.   Alexander McQueen – Spring Summer 1999 – Wooden Balsa Wings<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[174],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-110","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-when-fashion-meets-art"],"yoast_head":"\nWooden Fashion | The Fashion Commentator<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.thefashioncommentator.com\/it\/2012\/11\/wooden-fashion.html\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"it_IT\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Wooden Fashion | The Fashion Commentator\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Negli ultimi tre\/quattro anni i ricorsi della moda ci hanno fatto sognare con abiti e accessori tempestati di cristalli Swarovsky, piume, borchie, lamine dorate, scaglie di pvc oppure un\u2019infinit\u00e0 di stampe effetto caleidoscopio. 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