The New York Fashion Week ended a few days ago and as many readers have seen in my daily fashion reports on the
The Fashion Commentator Facebook Page, unfortunately it hasn’t been an exciting fashion week.
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| Delpozo – FW 2014 |
Among fashion collections made just by copying old trends coming from France and Italy without any kind of stylistic research, we could observe the further development of two major trends of contemporary fashion.
On one side we have chaotic collections with mix and match inspired by the street (the urban style has always been a cornerstone of American fashion), whose real peculiarity lies in the strength of every single item. Some designers in fact (especially the younger ones) aren’t interested in offering “total looks” for their customers: they prefer to design collections that catch the attentions of those who live fashion in a spontaneous way, going beyond, and often against, the rules of good taste. So a lot of collections without a logical connection between clothes, shoes and accessories spread all over the NYFW catwalks.
On the other side, established designers and some emerging talents aim to win over increasingly exclusive customers, meeting the needs of the luxury market, cutting off the average consumer who usually did somersaults to buy just an accessory of his favorite designer. We saw furs, precious materials of the highest quality and excellent workmanship often made in Italy, developing the concept of luxury to the nth degree, though the line debuted only a few seasons ago with understatement collections. Everything seems to change looking to the 380 million consumers of luxury goods that according to the analysis shared by the Boston Consulting Group and Exane BNP Paribas, will reach 440 millions of people in 2020. It is therefore not by chance that even the emerging Italian designers build the basis of their future making only luxury products, follow this unstoppable phenomenon.
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| Altuzarra – FW 2014 |
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| Costello Tagliapietra – FW 2014 |
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| Creatures of the Wind – FW 2014 |
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| Delpozo – FW 2014 |
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| Desigual – FW 2014 |
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| Diane Von Furstenberg – FW 2014 |
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| DKNY – FW 2014 |
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| Donna Karan – FW 2014 |
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| Tommy Hilfger – FW 2014 |
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| Jason Wu – FW 2014 |
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| Marc by Marc Jacobs – FW 2014 |
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| Nicholas K – FW 2014 |
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| Oscar de la Renta – FW 2014 |
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| Prabal Gurung – FW 2014 |
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| Rebecca Minkoff – FW 2014 |
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| Richard Chai Love – FW 2014 |
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| Rodarte – FW 2014 |
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| Thom Browne – FW 2014 |
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| Victoria Beckham – FW 2014 |
Criticisms aside, I admit that this New York fashion week has given us even some excitements such as the 40 years anniversary of Diane Von Furstenberg’s wrap dress; the 30th anniversary of Donna Karan’s career; the acclaimed debut of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier at the head of Marc by Marc Jacobs line, but the main event surely was Alexander Wang’s collection. The slightly oversized shapes of jackets and blouson, the multi-pockets felt coats that echo the concept of “armed protection” as military uniforms, the high tech fabrics that change color with hot temperature, the combinations of so different materials such as knitwear and leather, the mix of colors and the lasercut carvings bring Wang’s aesthetic near to Miuccia Prada’s avant-garde. It was one of the best collections seen in NY and for once the “marketability” factor seemed to be the least of the problems, it was just pure fashion, a real rarity for American fashion designers.
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| Alexander Wang – FW 2014 |
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| Alexander Wang – FW 2014 |
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| Alexander Wang – FW 2014 |
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| Alexander Wang – FW 2014 |
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Photo credits: Vogue.it
Giustissime osservazioni e su Alexander Wang mi trovi perfettamente d’accordo.
A me sono piaciute anche Del Pozo, Marc, un pizzico di Rodarte e molto Proenza Schouler.
Ci vediamo domani 😉
Alessia
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