The series of special events for the 87th edition of Pitti Uomo began with “Arrivo”, a fashion performance which presented the collection born from the collaboration of two Italian talents whose style is inspired by the past, Matteo Gioli of SuperDuper Hats and Stefano Ughetti of the brand Camo.
Arrivo, the performance
In the dark venue of the Dogana in via Valfonda two men are riding their bikes on a round platform. Every breath they take gradually becomes deeper and laboured, but the strange noise they make sounds like a rhythm that accompanies the movements of the legs: first one, then the other, up, down, forward, backward. In the meantime, the circular platform begins to rotate slowly and the models get on and off of this huge wheel showing the masculine elegance according to Matteo Gioli and Stefano Ughetti.
3 is the magic number
The wardrobe is basic, essential, as well as the lines and the shades: 3 items are declined in three key colors (white, black and gray) and combined in 27 outfits that echo the sporty clothes worn by the professional cyclists in the 40s. But beware, in this collection you won’t see any kind of that “street and sporty mood” widespread in every contemporary fashion collection (see also the latest Dior haute couture collections by Raf Simons), Arrivo is just pure vintage attire. In fact, the striped polo shirt and the glen plaid suits with one button jackets and large pockets remind of Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali, the greatest Italian cyclists of the post-war period.
In “Arrivo” Matteo Gioli and Stefano Ughetti are like two cyclists of the Giro d’Italia race but there’s no antagonism between them because they are teammates and maybe this can be the meaning we can give to the collection: “United we stand, divided we fall” and the interconnections and collaborations between emerging designers could be a good solution to revive an exhausted and ready-to-collapse fashion system.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator