First day of Milan fashion week (at least for me) and while on social media such authoritative newspaper as LaRepubblica shares videos against the phenomenon of fashion blogging with such a lack of professionalism, the seasonal trends dance is going on the runway and in the showrooms, and it doesn’t matter if a designer has re-used the same elements, themes or inspirations of another brand. In fashion seems there are no rules!
While waiting for the articles dedicated to the single brands that most impressed me, I propose a brief but intense recap with all the appointments of the day starting with the Ermanno Scervino fashion show. In the spring summer collection 2015 he seems to continue the work begun just a year ago, with sea-inspired fashion outfits from American fashion of the 50s, but always reinterpreting it with a glam sporty twist, thanks to the Scervino summer must-have, the parka. Flowers of all shapes invade the wardrobe: painted, carved, applied or embroidered, and each flower seems to tell its own story, its own summer poetry, its version of the concept of haute couture.
The tour goes on with Furla, the accessories brand that this year has a love affair with neo-pop art. The showroom in Corso Venezia is transformed into an art gallery dedicated to the neo-pop movement: the iconic bag of the brand are revisited with brush strokes and paint splashes and a special installation celebrates the small Metropolis bag video-projecting animated colorful patterns on it, as it was a white wall for a talented street artist.
Sophisticated luxury for the Florentine accessories brand Rodo, which in recent years has been gaining a place on the most important red carpets thanks to the precious minaudiere you can see in the hands of famous movie stars. Every bag is a sort of emblem of the craftsmanship heritage of the brand itself and you can have this feeling in the showroom, where next to the new SS2015 collection in denim and with metal effects, there were the original pieces of the 60s.
Pleasant surprise at Orciani, the leather goods brand born in 1978 thanks to the intuition of Claudio Orciani who wanted a belt suitable for a guy his age (23). The strength of the brand is in the research of new technique to work the leather. Room after room you discover a world of decorations and languages suitable for all personalities, from simple lines to more elaborate decorations, until the ironic and desecrating excesses of the new line Santeria, made of mini bags with printed saints.
Stefano Pilati, creative director of the brand Agnona, offers a sophisticated reinterpretation of ancient egypt declining lotus flowers on bags and impalpable silk garments, and then shaped sculpture dresses modelled from a single piece then cut with curved slits. “Statuesque” gold leaf sandals paired with sequined mousseline in the shades of the Nile, suggest the silhouette of a contemporary Egyptian queen: a sophisticated woman, but at the same time, with a strong personality.
The collaboration between Pinko and the stylist Viviana Volpicella goes on with Uniqueness. The brand presented a collection from the gipsy mood with maxi skirts, tops and dresses featured by long and oversized flowing lines which sometimes resemble the exuberance and opulence of Carmen Miranda.
The first day ends with a party at Ter et Bantine showroom, where the DJ set by Giorgio Moroder took the guests back in the 60s, the same period which the collection is inspired to. The contrasting shades ranging from bright tones as orange and green, to candy pink and aquamarine are declined on psychedelic polka dots, abstract embroidery in sequins and beads, long jumpsuits, pinafore dresses and flared dresses in a total sixties mood, but always with a contemporary study of volumes and proportions.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator