The presentation of the pre-fall 2014 capsule collection by Barbara Casasola was one of the most awaited date of the 13rd edition of Pitti W in Florence. It took place in the decadent rooms of Palazzo Portinari Salviati, where the contrast between the contemporary scenic design and the Renaissance frescoes perfectly framed the male-female dichotomy of the “Menswear for Women” capsule collection of the Brazilian designer.
In the first room, an array of black vintage telephones welcomes the guests while in the background there’s the screening of a short video made by ShowStudio (directed by Marie Schuller ) in which a tormented Jamie Bochert interprets Barbara Casasola’s collection as in a nouvelle vague movie.
In the next room finally we enter the heart of the presentation: a walkway running along four rooms connects two tableaux vivant set up at the beginning and at the end of the path. The models pass slowly across the scenarios and their relaxed but aloof attitude, seems to bring out the more intimate and introspective side of the glamorous and self-confident Casasola’s woman.
As the title says, this is a “menswear for women” collection in which the British bespoke tailoring tradition merges with the sensuality of women: the straight lines of jackets are juxtaposed with the fluidity of pant-skirts and the softness of the sophisticated fabrics proposed in rose, cherry and burgundy nuances.
Once again, as when she debuted for the Vogue Italia Talents selection in 2012
, the cultural mix of her life experiences has deeply marked the style of the collection: there is a bit of Brazil, with its bright colors, sensual cuts and clean silhouettes that echo the architectural modernism of Niemeyer; a bit of London, the city where she studied fashion and from which she inherited the “sartorial mood” for jackets and coats; and finally Florence, the capital of art and craft in which she produces her collections and to which she dedicated the first bag
taking inspiration by the old Florentine leather coin purse with metal clasps and sliding ring.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator