Tu mi fai girar/ tu mi fai girar/ come fossi una bambola…No ragazzo no/ tu non mi metterai/ tra le dieci bambole/ che non ti piacciono più/ Oh no, oh no…
Looking at the photos of the San Andrès spring summer 2014 pre-collection by Andres Caballero which paraded during the last edition of AltaRoma (the Italian haute couture fashion week in Rome), I can’t get along without humming the famous song “La bambola” (the doll) which consecrated the Italian Pop singer Patty Pravo as the queen of the Roman nights in the 60s.
|San Andrès Milano SS 2014 catwalk in Rome|
Andrés Caballero‘s women are a contemporary version of the Lupita dolls, the paper mache hand painted dolls with black shoes, white socks and floral dress. Once again Andrès celebrates femininity being inspired by the traditional Mexican folk (his country of origin), mixing the typical elements with current items and classics thanks to his couturier soul.
Patty Pravo in her song renounced to a man who treated her like a toy, Andrés seems to accentuate this independent spirit by creating oversized silhouettes, squared cuts and using male items such as white shirts, jackets and trousers, combined with mirrored glasses which hide proud eyes. However, these male inspired shapes are just a trick to balance the sweet and coy mood emerging from the bright floral patterns of the fabrics; from the Mary-Jane black patent leather shoes with white socks or the polychrome layers in broderie anglaise and silk.
As always, the small details are the real protagonists of the San Andrès collactions: the asymmetric silk drapery in pastel colors is interrupted by black bands with a graphic effect vaguely inspired to Piet Mondrian’s abstract compositions; the precious applique on the mini hoods look like the Lupita’s dresses decorations, while the particular heart shapes of the maxi sequins look like the kaleidoscopic compositions with butterflies by Damien Hirst. All these elements contribute to make a funny, playful, fresh and youthful wardrobe, a sort of tribute to the little girl hidden in every San Andrès woman.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Special thanks to Andrès Caballero
Photo credits: catwalks images San Andrès press office and FashionMag.it