As you know from the previous post about Bulgari and the photos shared on Fb and Twitter, on June 15th and 16th there were Les Journées Particulieres, a special and unique occasion to visit the laboratories, cellars, factories, historic boutiques and showrooms of the LVMH brands.
After the exciting tour in the Bulgari factory, I had the pleasure to re-visit the Emilio Pucci archive at Villa Pucci in Granaiolo, a small village on the hills near Empoli (Florence).
The visit began with BLACK LOVES WHITE, an exhibition dedicated to a selection of dresses inspired by the black and white contrast, one of the most important theme of the Pucci production. Contrary to what you might think, the black and white dresses occupy a large part of the archive, especially after the advent of the Norwegian designer Peter Dundas, who has created a new contemporary and cosmopolitan Pucci woman recovering the heritage of the brand, without limiting his inspirations to the colorful prints. The exhibition curated by the visual artist Felice Limosani and Alessandra Arezzi Boza (director of Pucci archive) highlighted the best details of the dresses thanks to a special triple mirror set beyond every mannequin, which brought the observer into several other dimensions: in the atelier where the hand-embroidered are made; on the red carpet with the contemporary divas dressed by Peter Dundas, and finally in the 50s, when the Marquis Emilio Pucci paraded around the world conquering buyers and press.
The tour continued in the adjacent rooms where Polimoda students together with the skilled tailors of the fashion house gave life to a mini haute couture collection, showing how much painstaking work requires each piece.
In the great hall in which are kept the cabinets containing only a very little part of the archive, the visual artist Felice Limosani presented a video installation dedicated to the creative and productive process of a Pucci dress. On an endless sequence of suspended canvas sheets were projected kaleidoscopic animations of the classic Pucci prints. Every sheet symbolized a single step of the process and the last sheet (in which the images are sharp and clear) was the finished product which couldn’t exist without the other stages.
The tour ends in recently renovated rooms which Laudomia Pucci has decided to dedicate to the next generation of designers and scholars who will visit the Pucci archive for workshops and other activities. For LJP, the room hosted the Pucci prints department, where the prints designers, along with a team of students, made the two designes for the limited edition scarves for the opening of the Emilio Pucci boutiques in Rome and Paris.
|Sketch for the scarf of the Emilio Pucci Roman boutique Piazza di Spagna|
|Sketch for the scarf of the Parisian Emilio boutique in Avenue Montaigne|
As usual, the visit to the villa of Granaiolo has been a fascinating experience that I would do every day hoping to see the whole archive in which past and future are mixed in the name of Italian style labeled Emilio Pucci.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Un ringraziamento speciale a tutto lo staff Emilio Pucci, in particolar modo a Simona