Yesterday Giorgio Armani announced that from the next edition of Milan Menswear Fashion Week (22-25 June) he will launch a special program to provide practical support for the Italian fashion system by hosting the shows of the most promising emerging Italian designers in his Armani Teatro. The first appointment will be the Spring Summer 2014 collection by Andrea Pompilio, the undisputed prince of men’s style in the last three editions of Pitti Uomo, who won the Who Is On Next? Vogue prize in 2011.
|Giorgio Armani – Andrea Pompilio|
Armani gives a real signal of support to the new generations of Italian fashion designers going far beyond the individualistic perspective of his own brand. He aims to build a stronger Italian fashion system, which has lately lost its power because of the typical parochial way of working of the Italian fashion houses, that penalized Milan in the race with the other fashion weeks.
Lately there are many successful examples of new emerging designers supported by more structured brands. I’m referring to the accessory collections of Furla Talent Hub designed by selected designers from the Vogue Talents; then to Gucci, which created a new bamboo-bag designed by the fashion student Laura Popoviciu in 2011; then the F4YG project of the OVS low cost brand, who chose a neo-graduate of the Central Saint Martins to create a special collection under the supervision of Mattew Williamson. Last, but not least, the experiment of Donatella Versace, who has decided to entrust the Versus line to a different emerging designer for every season, letting them to interpret the style of the house according to their sensitivity. J.W. Anderson was the first one and two weeks ago rocked New York with a special Versus fashion show-concert.
|Laura Popoviciu for Gucci – Ever Bamboo bag|
|Leitmotiv for Furla Talent Hub|
|OVS F4YG project|
|Backstage of Versus by JW Anderson fashion show – photo via versusversace.com|
The above-mentioned initiatives testify the growing interest towards the new brands, but the opening of a sacred temple as the Armani Teatro to the new Italian fashion designers, marks the beginning of a big change in conceiving the whole Italian fashion industry as a system. From now on, seems there will be a place for everyone in the Italian fashion system, thanks to the renovated Italian spirit which brings Giorgio Armani to defend (save?) the Milan Fashion Week, making it more attractive, up to date and competitive with other international fashion weeks. I just can say: Long live the King (Giorgio) and his protégés!
|Giorgio Armani e modelle in Giorgio Armani FW 13 – ph: Giorgio Armani Press office|
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator