Men’s fashion is literally changing its course and the last Milan fashion week has been the proof of it. Just a few minutes after the sporty-inspired collection by Giorgio Armani, it was Ermanno Scervino‘s turn, the one who based his fashion career on the casual-chic concept, and who can be considered as the precursor of this new menswear revolution which wants a sporty, relaxed, but still elegant man.
The Ermanno Scervino Menswear Spring Summer 2014 collection is a tribute to the male icons of the showbiz, who have influenced the fashion history and seduced a lot of generations thanks to their own charism. There are Marcello Mastroianni, Mick Jagger, Marlon Brando, James Dean, Steve McQueen and even the President JFK, but despite the references from the 50s, the collection is not nostalgic. It’s more like a scream for freedom against the laws of the old formal wear according to Scervino’s style, who proposed denim as the key fabric of the season.
The style is simple and smart: tailored jackets are matched with unbuttoned denim shirts or light-as-silk mohair sweaters, while the straight leg jeans have a new loose fit thanks to pleats and darts. The outfits are completed with ton-sur-ton denim trench coats, laced derby shoes or also sporty items such as parkas and bomber jackets lined with 3D lozenges fabrics.
Lo stile è semplice e lineare con giacche sartoriali dal fit asciutto abbinate a camicie sbottonate in denim leggero come seta o a maglioni in mohair stropicciato a righe o a motivi argyle. I jeans a gamba dritta assumono una nuova identità rilassata grazie a pince e pieghe che li rendono un perfetto ibrido tra praticità ed eleganza, il tutto incorniciato da spolverini e stringate derby ton-sur-ton. Ampio spazio viene dedicato anche a capi d’influenza sportiva come i parka e i bomber foderati di tessuti 3D con micro trame a losanghe.
The main novelty, as always for the Scervino collections, lies in the textiles: denim has never been so refined and eclectic. It’s light-as-silk on the shirts with pleated bibs, but it also has a shining leather-like effect on jackets, coats and trousers thanks to a special varnishing technique in the shades of green, black, blue, putty and orange. Finally, there are also small excesses as the sophisticated crocodile print on black leather jacket; the Swarovski crystals studded accessories and the floral macramé scarves, one of the main feature of the house and of the bohemian spirit of the designer himself.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Photo credits: Pinterest and Ermanno Scervino Press Office