Writing today the review of the Ermanno Scervino autumn winter 2013 collection, after almost three months from the show, it would be anachronistic; especially if we consider that the fashion industry’s paces are very similar to the speed of light, making look old even what is not in the store yet. But staring at the photos of the collection I couldn’t help but reflect on the “time factor”, or rather on “the past“, and its value in fashion.
|Ermanno Scervino – Fall Winter 2013 collection|
On the press release of the show there was the phrase “the future is in the recovery of traditions, in putting together elements from different eras and making them talk to each other“. I believe these words represent the formal and aesthetic solution for all the great Italian fashion designers who are trying to conquest Asian markets, despite the European crisis. Actually, many one-hundred-year-old fashion brands can boast of astonishing sales volumes thanks to the recovery of the past, revisiting iconic garments and accessories according to the latest zeitgeist of the trend books. In the case of Ermanno Scervino, who has launched his own line in 1999 innovating the concept of sport-couture, it would seem such an impossible challenge to give a new life to the garments of a “so young” archive without being repetitive.
Nonetheless, the fall winter 2013 collection marks an unexpected turning point in Scervino’s aesthetics, taking references from the past eras, creating wonderful coats with sinuous silhouettes from the 40s, declined in masculine fabrics treated as impalpable silk;
|Ermanno Scervino FW 2013 – coats and jackets from the 40s – cappotti e giacche anni ’40|
proposing fur headscarves as the divas of the Dolce Vita, or fur stoles and collars combined with ton sur ton coats, long satin dresses or asymmetrical pleated mini dresses reminiscent of the flapper dresses;
|Ermanno Scervino FW 2013 – fur headscarves – foulard portati sulla testa|
|Ermanno Scervino FW 2013 – fur – pellicce|
revisiting the leopard print on fur-coat tight at the waist with wide necklines, or in the fur lapels of the jackets;
|Ermanno Scervino FW 2013 – leopard printed fur|
and finally, dreaming of organza and chiffon evening dresses with shining bijoux.
|Ermanno Scervino Fw 2013 – evening gowns |
|Fine details: refined knitted angora with Swarovski embroidery, houndstooth coat, floral wool laser-cut top, geometric patchwork on organza garments, python and fur jacket, romantic white lace.|
This mix of styles from the past, paradoxically renewed and transformed the Ermanno Scervino glam-rock and bohemian-chic imaginary woman in a sophisticated timeless icon, though staying faithful to the main Scervino’s features, such as the precious details cared by the Florentine artisans which determined the worldwide success of the brand in the last 15 years.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Photo credits for the images used in the collages: Ermanno Scervino press office; Pinterest