It’s a cold Wednesday evening in Florence and while the “crowd of fashion” come into town for the 83rd edition of Pitti Uomo wanders in the parties of the most luxurious streets of the center, a long line of people is waiting to get into the more-than-7-centuries-old social and political heart of the city, Palazzo Vecchio. A selected audience of journalists, buyers and VIPs parades on the long red carpet running around the building just under the eyes of the David of Michelangelo. They came here to attend the 83rd Pitti Uomo special event, the Ermanno Scervino fall winter 2013 menswear and the pre-fall winter 2013 womenswear collections fashion shows.
The “grottesca” frescos on the vaults of the inner court of the palace are just the beginning of the show that pervades your senses at the entrance of the magnificent Salone dei Cinquecento. The frescos on the walls by Giorgio Vasari have a new light thanks to digital projections that enhance the colors, bringing out the characters from the battle scenes. In the center of the huge salon there’s the long runway paved with mirrors reflecting the coffered ceiling with the triumph of the Grand Duke Cosimo I; all around the catwalk is sitting the elite of international fashion journalism, some of the most important Florentine fashion designers, the Florentine nobility, actresses and socialites, as well as the mayor of Florence, Matteo Renzi and his wife.
|Salone dei Cinquecento – light projections on Giorgio Vasari frescos – Courtesy Ermanno Scervino press office|
The lights turn on, and the Ermanno Scervino men take on the catwalk double-breasted three buttons formal jackets and coats characterized by an easy mood. As usual, the dandy spirit and the sporty mood meet in Scervino’s taste, who unexpectedly combines leather pants with classic coats or pins a fabric rose in the buttonhole of the blazer’s lapels. The casual outerwear layering made of coats, knitwear and shirts, makes a sort of “chromatic climax” beginning with the gray shades damped by burgundy, black and blue items or interrupted by the white shirts and pocket squares or by the edges of the Ivy-league-like cardigans. The fabric research is the main feature for the Florentine fashion house which creates unexpected contrasting layers with suede, glossy fabrics, flannels, knitted networks, leathers that look high-tech fabrics and the classic plain velvet for the evening.
Masculine and feminine are perfectly combined and blended in the women pre-collection: men’s tailoring in fact upsets its canons wrapping the silhouettes of elegant and hyper-feminine business-women wearing their double-breasted coats, with a fluffy handkerchief coming out of the pocket.
The ivory outfits are characterized by timeless elegance, made of knee-length minimal dresses tight at the waist with python belts or wrapped in coats with fur lapels.
The python becomes the main feature of dresses and skirts made of fine leather straps alternate with organza, becoming a sort of symbol of the two main Tuscan craftsmanships such as leather and haute couture. The natural pattern of symmetrical python scales are dismantled and reassembled with the lightness of organza fabric giving birth to a new material consistency, almost evanescent, ethereal.
Similarly, the black leather carved with floral embroidery loses its aggressive and alternative value, becoming an ode to sensuality.
The palette covers the gray shades contrasting with black, ivory, honey and a special nuance between dust and sky, called “ashes of roses” declined on embroidered silk dresses and on a long coat resembling the mantle of a queen.
The show ends with a solemn march of Eva Riccobono, the vestal of Ermanno Scervino’s style walking in a long white silk dress.
The Florentine lily deserves a special mention among the details and the recurring symbols of the two collections. Embroidered on wool and silk, as well as studded with rhinestones on brooches, this peculiar flower is a tribute to Florence and its craftmanship, without which the brand Ermanno Scervino could not be considered as one of the greatest emblem of the “Made in Florence” in the world.
|ERMANNO SCERVINO – PITTI UOMO 83 – BACKSTAGE – EVA RICCOBONO|
|ERMANNO SCERVINO – PITTI UOMO 83 – BACKSTAGE – LINDSEY WIXSON|
|ERMANNO SCERVINO – PITTI UOMO 83 – BACKSTAGE – LIYA KEBEDE|
|ERMANNO SCERVINO – PITTI UOMO 83 – BACKSTAGE|
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Photo Credits: Official catwalk photos, courtesy of Ermanno Scervino Press Office