The Parisian Spring Summer 2013 Haute Couture week has become the stage for the battle between the French couturier and the Italian masters. The fashion designers, who always try to concile the needs of the contemporary women with the typical “haute couture princess-dream”, seemed to be divided into four categories:
|Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013 – Dior, Valentino (details)|
The arrival of Raf Simons at Dior has definitely changed the concept of haute couture, making it sober and more contemporary through the research of materials and the study of volumes, which took references from the story of the house. This new formal purism clashes with the poetry of Giambattista Valli. The Italian interpreter of contemporary-romantic style who dresses the socialites all around the world. As usual among the best pieces of the collection there are the total animal-prints looks, the abundant floral applications and the sculpture-jewelry by Luigi Scialanga.
|Dior – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Giambattista Valli – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
Even the sexy and cheeky mood pervades the haute couture, as in the case of Alexandre Vauthier and Atelier Versace. The first is minimal and edgy with dizzying necklines and golden anklets. Donatella Versace, instead, dares with transparences: the pinstriped suits become modern fluid sculptures adorned with fur shoulder-pads and golden cuffs, as for gladiator women.
For the evening: total white gown with fluorescent details or short pleated peplos, a must for the house.
|Alexandre Vauthier – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Atelier Versace – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
Two of the greatest designers have focused their collections on the concept of travel. Jean Paul Gaultier brings us in India revolutionizing the silhouettes of the typical costumes, but keeping and highlighting the traditional colors with contrasting overlays of embroidered veils.
King Giorgio instead, with his Armani Privé collection takes us on a flying carpet across the Middle and Far East, merging cultures by the hands of Italian artisans. Wonderful silk-mikado pant suits are enriched with geometric prints, tribal inspired jewelery and fez hats. As usual, the precious fabrics declined on sculptural volumes with invisible cuts and folds, are the true hallmark of the King.
|Jean Paul Gaultier – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Armani Privé – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Armani with his models – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
The France vs Italy fashion battle ends with two designers who seem to stop time at every fashion whow, projecting the audience in a dreamy dimension.
The Lebanese Elie Saab, universally recognized as the master of transparency and embroidery, proposes a delicate collection of pale colors which accentuate the sense of lightness of the fabrics, balanced by floral rhinestone applications.
The Chiuri-Piccioli duo at the helm of Valentino, brought on the catwalk a collection inspired by a secret garden enclosed by an old gate with spiral decorations which vaguely refer to a dress by Charles Worth. The rose labyrinths, the crochet flowers leaping out from the skirts, the fluttering sparrows on tulle layers and the sequin climbing plants are few of the elements characterizing the Valentino’s enchanted garden. Only very few women possess the precious key to enter it, so we can just imagine it and dream about it, admiring their dresses.
|Elie Saab – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Valentino – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
|Comparison between Charles Worth gown (1898/1900) and Valentino coat – Paris Haute Couture Spring Summer 2013|
After this brief but intense review, with a sort of patriotic pride that sounds more like a revenge, I can say the Italian flag ruled over the last SS 2013 Paris haute couture week.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator