Over this short but intense Christmas break I decided to dedicate the first posts of the new year to the woman Spring Summer 2013 collections, concluding the series of reviews dedicated to the Milan Fashion Week.
I start this little tour through Italian fashion with the collection of Maurizio Pecoraro
: a Sicilian born designer (1966), who is still called “emerging”, due to a silly Italian cultural vice of not considering the designers who came out after the mid 90s (despite he launched his own brand in 1998). He has a mature and recognizable aesthetic vision and his long career would scare many of the so-called “big designers”, but the several foreign buyers and the famous journalists sitting in the front rows know that.
The Visionar(t)y collection is inspired by art: Maurizio Pecoraro in fact, creates a sort of dialogue with nature looking for references in Robert Mapplethorpe’s still lifes. He chromatically revisited the calla lily series declining them on slightly flared dresses and coats made of parachute cloth or studded with sequins.
|Robert Mapplethorpe – Calla Lily, 1987 – Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation|
The “Flowers” series by Irving Penn seems whispered as in a velatura painting technique on ethereal and gauzy silks;
|Irving Penn – Poppy Barr’s White, NY, 1968|
while the brush strokes of the Korean artist Lee Ufan, fruit of “one or two minutes of intense concentration, supported by a only deep breath”, become a minimalistic pattern. They are a new kind of imperfect lines in the natural shades of blue, burgundy, brown and green, contrasting with the neutral high-tech fabrics.
|Lee Ufam – From Line, 1977 Colla e pigmenti minerali su tela|
Photo: Lee Ufan and Solomon Guggenheim Foundation
The sequin evening dresses covered by the coats with three-quarter sleeves alternate with minimal sporty tank tops and shorts, but they are all united by the rounded edges which define a new concept of contemporary chic.
I didn’t want to publish anyone of the photos taken in the show, or rather, the “impressions of lights left by the running models that I awkwardly caught with my smartphone”, but the more I look at them, the more I think this shimmering effect is one of the main qualities of the collection. The Maurizio Pecoraro woman is a sort of contemporary Mother Nature who shines at every step thanks to all the sequins and floral applications enriching her wide and soft silhouette, creating a strong contrast with the gray background of the city.
She is a shining woman.
She has “the light” inside.
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator