Here it is the final recap of the last Paris Fashion Week that you could follow even on The Fashion Commentator Facebook Page. In Paris there has been no news on the catwalks, but a lot of surprises, so as the delusions. But fashion goes on…and maybe it’s too late yet. We have to think to the pre-collections soon!
Russian princess with space-suit for Aganovich.
Alexander McQueen – Golden honeycomb and Tortoiseshell declined on the hourglass silhouette from the archive. New weird materials and details on the classics of the archive.
Street style and glam bon-ton for Alexis Mabille with crochet floral applications on sporty hoods or dresses.
Black and White intertwining and drapes at ANTHONY VACCARELLO
Strange collection for Balmain, it looks like Gianni Versace from the 90s. Optical checkered effect prints, big shoulder pads and black leather.
Floral storm at Cacharel.
Safari prints like Victorian tapestry and Art nouveau details at Carven
Primitive mix and match at Cedric Charlier
Conceptual collection for CÉLINE : black and white, pale pink, funny bags as bread paper bags, but also ugly Birkenstok fur shoes. Someone calls it art…
Squared fit at Chalayan…not so new ideas, especially if you think to the last Martin Margiela collections.
Chanel goes oversized and everything is inspired by renewable energy. An homage to the new technologies like photovoltaic panels and wind turbines. From the accessories, to the silhouettes, everything is bigger and bigger till the criticized hula hop bag. You know what? I like it. Come on it’s fashion…you have to dare and play with it!
Stripes, ruffles and edgy contemporary silhouette: easy chic look for Chloé that celebrates 60 years of activity with a big exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo until November 18th
“Don’t cut my medicine, don’t cut my freedom.” With this little provocative sentence I wanted to underline the conceptual approach of Ennio Capasa for his Costume National collection. He declined these two photos by Pierpaolo Ferrari and Maurizio Cattelan onto contemporary and minimalistic shapes. Interesting mix of provocative contemporary art and fashion.
Electric blue at Damir Doma
Pop influences and boho chic mood for Dévastée with all those pictures stolen from an art gallery.
Floral and checkered patterns for Dries Van Noten country mood.
Couture cuts and constructions for Elie Saab jackets and cocktail dresses.
When cubism meets abstractionism at Felipe Oliveira Baptista
Nippon costume influences at Gareth Pugh
Giambattista Valli – Provocative but Romantic with contemporary high waisted silhouettes and flowers applications on lightweight silk.
Stop the rock! Style change for Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy with a sophisticated mood from the 70s.
Interesting mix at Guy Laroche: artisanal ethnic inspired fabrics and edgy minimalistic shapes.
Classic silk scarves prints, optical intertwined effect and men’s look for Hermès
Gipsy mood at Isabel Marant.
Stars parade from the 80s for Jean Paul Gaultier: Michael Jackson, Boy George, Annie Lennox, Madonna and the real Amanda Lear. Ironic and unique as always.
Sporty High tech suits and dresses looking like tribal mask at Junya Watanabe
Let’s take a safari into the jungle. Safari jacket, floral prints and colorful leoprints are the new must for Kenzo.
Geometry and Asymmetry at Lanvin
Lady like checkered mood by Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton, inspired by the contemporary artist Daniel Buren who realized the set of the show on a site specific installation with escalators.
Modern Nefertitis at Manish Arora: a mix of Egyptian decoration, a little bit of Russian opulence and Nippon origami.
Miuccia Prada for Miu Miu brings on the catwalk her same old ladylike mood, with vintage shapes from the 50s and colored fur stoles. Everything is so simple and linear. Very interesting the bijou resembling contemporary art works.
Still aggressive but sensitive, the woman imagined by Nicola Formichetti for Mugler.
Yves Saint Laurent …pardon “Saint Laurent” by Hedi Slimane revisits the archive from the 70s with a black leather mood. He’s not Yves, but it’s an homage to the great couturier. I think we should wait the next seasons to see the new Saint Laurent era.
Dior by Raf Simons is not Dior anymore, but maybe is more Dior now than the Galliano era. The lines are simple, edgy and contemporary, but vintage at the same time re-interpreting the silhouettes from the 50s with new materials and fabrics.
Classy, sporty, oversized…typically Stella McCartney.
Valentino collection is a mix of minimalistic silhouettes with romantic embroideries and floral crochet. Delicate and sophisticated.