During the last Milan fashion week, the ground floor of Palazzo Morando became a showroom which hosted the finalists of WhoIsOnNext? 2012, the fashion competition held annually by Vogue Italia for finding the great fashion designers of the future. The highest names of fashion attended the exclusive opening ceremony, but in the following days the exhibition has been opened to the public and the atmosphere became more relaxed, turning into a pleasant occasion to meet the designers.
|Marcobologna winners of Who is on Next?2012 – Milano, Palazzo Morando – Photo: Vogue.it|
The two winners Marco Giugliano and Nicola Bologna of the brand MARCOBOLOGNA open the exhibition with a collection inspired by the American Dream. East Coast and West Coast are combined into colorful prints, with neon lights and holographic fabrics recalling the exuberance of the 80s. Sober lines with charming ladylike elements make up a fresh-looking ensemble, increasing your desire of a carefree summer, perhaps enjoying a cocktail in Miami Beach. Highlights: the neon prints series and the holographic pleated skirt.
Then I stopped by Conspiracy, the shoes line by Gianluca Tamburini who reinterprets the wonders of the natural world in fascinating sculptures for feet. The details, the materials and the shapes of the heels testify Gianluca’s desire to communicate his own vision and aesthetic sensitivity. A unique and dreamy message of “aesthetic freedom”, for real women. Highlights: the tentacular Scilla shoes and the corals heels of Tarita shoes, which take us to an imaginary trip from southern Italy to Polynesia.
|Gialuca Tamburini – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
The study of volumes and material research are the main features of Alessia Xoccato clothes. As can be seen from the mood-board, her minimalist style is made of contrasting colors declined on egg-shaped dresses influenced by fluid design. The top pieces are the no buttons overcoat with shell-shaped sleeves, and the lilac herringbone coat without lapels and unstructured shoulder pads. Alessia is definitely an interesting voice in the endless sea of emerging designers who rely on minimalism as a means of expression. Not all succeed, but Alessia does.
|Alessia Xoccato – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
Contemporary glamour mood for the Italian-Brazilian Barbara Casasola, whose pure silk creations come to life when worn on the move. She explained me that the powder color dresses are made of modular bands that create a full pleated skirt, showing sensual transparencies at each step, so as the coral and fuchsia dresses have side slits that reveal the hidden micro shorts, ideal to play down the evening dress effect. While we were chatting, Barbara proudly showed me her new conquest: one of her clothes was selected by Carine Roitfeld for the editorial dedicated to new talents of the CR fashionbook. I can easily imagine that being considered as one of the best emerging fashion designers on the planet is one of the greatest satisfaction for her career.
|Barbara Casasola – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
A young man in dark suit kindly handed me a card with a kaleidoscopic wheel of models wearing the latest collection by San Andrés Milano. He is Andrés Caballero, Mexican fashion designer moved to Italy, who launched his line in 2006 following the passion for traditional tailoring. He has a quite nostalgic approach to fashion and humbly told me he is a contemporary couturier who loves to draw and sew clothes by hand, studying the cuts with the traditional modeling. This little selection of the spring summer 2013 collection is characterized by natural colors declined on ladylike dresses with the contemporary twist of the unexpected combination of fabrics and the jewel collars. Definitely a good old days’ work, for timeless clothes.
|San Andrés Milano by Andrés Caballero – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
The tour continues in what we might call the “room of contrasts”, where the total white collection of Mario Chiarella clashes with the enchanted world of Benedetta Bruzziches handbags.
Mario Chiarella is an Apulian down to earth fashion designer. His white collection whispers measured elegance, thanks to the geometric convex dresses, alternated with flared skirts and origami decorations enhanced by pearly maxi sequins. Minimalist sculpture dresses that show their beauty already on the clotheshanger, and crown every woman as a queen of elegance. Highlight: the vest with fur borders that blends past and present with a great deal of research and study of the shapes. The folds game of the neckline, the material contrasts and the luxury of fur, are the ideal mix for a sophisticated, but dynamic woman.
|Mario Chiarella – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|At the opposite site there was the funny, energic and cheerful Benedetta Bruzziches. Her smiling eyes convey all the passion of her stories. Yes … stories, because every collection is a sort of novel in which the bags play a key role (Clicking here, I invite you to read the description of the collection wrote by the designer herself. A Fellini-like story that let you think about new and old sensations. It is in Italian but you can easily translate by Google). As a warm welcome to her corner, there was a soft mountain made of Carmen, the iconic quilted leather bags recalling the Chester chair by Poltrona Frau. For this occasion the classic Carmen bags were dressed up as “Carmen BruzziCat” with vintage silk fabrics. A special fall winter 2012 capsule collection, symbol of the friendship between Benedetta Bruzziches and Caterina Gatta, a well known emerging designer who uses vintage fabrics from the archives of the most important fashion houses. On display there were even all the other “bag-characters” such as: Bugatti, the rigid sculpture bag that magically closes without catch; the Libro Lavagna bag, on which you can write your thoughts with a chalk; or Cabaret, the little minaudière shaped as a tray of pastries, a childhood memory of the family lunches on Sundays.
Benedetta personal story sounds like the script of a film. One day in a lift, she met a self-made man who changed the destiny, taking her to India to design bags. Once back home, with a total new positive energy she realized her dreams, launching the family brand with the brother Agostino. It sounds like an endless tale made of hard work, tenacity, sacrifice and professionalism, but always with a smile on the face. Her joy is contagious and makes her a unique person, as well as a great designer.
|Giovanna Battaglia(left) and Benedetta Bruzziches(right) – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
|Carmen bag trip to Latin America|
|Benedetta Bruzziches modeling the Cabaret minaudiére with the sculptor|
In the WION?2012 finalists section there were also the other collections and participants such as: Giancarlo Petriglia and Zanchetti by Giacomo Zanchetti bags, or Suzanne Susceptible clothes; the architectural shoes by Charline De Luca, characterized by edgy forms and contrasting materials ranging from raffia to python;
|Charline De Luca – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
and finally the minimalist line Koonhor by Koon Lim and Catrine Thé, which blend high-tech materials and Asian aesthetic sensibility with interesting mix of graphics.
|Koonhor by Koon Lim and Catrine Thé – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando – WION?2012 (Photo: Vogue.it)|
The “Talent itinerary” at the ground floor of Palazzo Morando continued with a special gallery hosting several designers selected by the Vogue Talent channel. One of the most interesting brand is the Australian fashion designer Dion Lee. From collection to collection he experiments the carving and the interweaving of semi-rigid textiles, to create sinuous and fluid silhouettes inspired by nature. Highlight: his jackets and coats simulating the backbone have already become cult items among the fashionistas.
|Dion Lee – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando (Photo: Vogue.it)|
Ely.B. is another interesting brand by Eleonora Bruno, a young visionary milliner formed at Polimoda, who reinterprets the beauty of nature with a glam rock twist. Not only feathers, leaves, shells and porcupine quills, but also ostrich eggs that seem to mention the sacred iconography of Salvador Dalì.
|Ely.B. by Eleonora Bruno – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando (Photo: Vogue.it)|
To conclude this long post dedicated to the Vogue Talents I like to write about the Tuscan designers Marta Saletti and Simona Cassai, owner of the Leda Otto jewelry brand. In their original creations, they combine semi-precious stones and precious materials, transforming the plans of historic buildings in high jewelry pieces. The monuments, faithfully reproduced on brass sheets plated in 24 kt gold, rhodium or ruthenium, are enhanced with colorful semi-precious stones embedded in the focal points of the building plans, chronologically ranging from ancient Greece to the twentieth century, letting us to take a trip around the world, but also a full immersion in the Arezzo goldsmith tradition.
|LEDA OTTO by Simona Cassai and Marta Saletti – Vogue Talents – Milano, Palazzo Morando (Photo: Vogue.it)|