Anglophone Fashion Weeks Spring Summer 2014

I’m leaving Florence for the Milan Fashion Week (which actually for me will be a Milan Fashion Week-End), but before starting to comment the Italian catwalks I’ll go back to the “Anglophone” ones including both the New York and London Fashion Week.
 

You may say, it was time to update your blog with the NYFW reviews, but I can reply ther’s just one problem… a huge problem. This year I’ve seen a lack of imagination and creativity. I, as an humble observer, have noticed that NYFW was not only “weak”, but it has not even launched special messages or costume changes. I wonder how it could be possible that one of the most leading nation of the world is so flat on the creative level, basing his creation only on the business/marketing side .
I was hoping to write a daily flood of words on the big American names , while I’ve been captured and focused only by the rising fashion stars. I was really impressed by the mix and match of Prabal Gurung (even if) influenced by Prada ;the logomania of Alexander Wang who transformed his signature in a sophisticated pattern or laser -cut leather carvings, and finally, Tess Giberson with tartan patterns revisited in pastels and nude tones and contaminated with a Mondrian abstract mood.
 
 

Prabal Gurung
Alexander Wang
Tess Giberson
The real news, however, comes from a lackluster London, literally bloomed in a new  contemporary splendor thanks to Christopher Kane, who has turned the boring pages of a biology textbook in spring meadows declined on laser-cut tops and skirts. His collection is unique and does not copy anybody (despite the theme of “herbarium books” is an evergreen for the summer collections ), his “creative way” leads him to rely on more issues: from the high tech appeal with pins and wires, to the girly “candy wrapper” dresses with holographic effects. It’s nice, iconic and perhaps even difficult to wear , but it is new blood for the British fashion system.
Finally, I close the review with a simple observation on trends, for the next yearwe will see the return to the tartan patterns, renovated with a sort of dematerialization with light floral lace overlays .
 
 
 
Alessandro Masetti – The Fashion Commentator
Photo credits: style.com

3 Comments

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  • Ciao Alessandro,

    Condivido la tua recensione.
    NY debole, poco creativa, pochi spunti stilistici, pochi giochi di stile. Per Londra, Cristopher Kane si riconferma un direttore creativo all’avanguardia e pieno di stimoli. Sarà il Gianni Versace degli anni ’10. Ho trovato bella anche Burberry, perchè sempre nuova e propositiva. A oggi posso dirti che Milano sta battendo le altre due capitali (note per la loro contemporaneità e avanguardia). In attesa di Parigi…
    Un abbraccio,

    Viola (Fashi-off)

  • Non avevo visto Kane (figuriamoci, già seguo poco la MFW, non vado a buttare il naso a Londra!), ma devo dire che da queste foto mi piace molto, forse un po’ troppo ampio come discorso, ma intrigante. Bravo, sicuramente uno dei migliori astri nascenti stranieri.
    Da Milano mi aspetto molto, è una FW totalmente rifatta e molto coinvolgente!
    New York, invece, abbiamo il coraggio di dirlo, vale poco, se la città non fosse New York e se non ci fosse Vogue non credo sarebbe una FW così riconosciuta. Si salveranno in meno di 10.

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